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Once upon a time, I conceived the mad idea to retrace a part of the medieval pilgrimage route through Northern Spain, throwing in a few days in Barcelona, a junket to the shopping mall known as the country of Andorra, and a ramble across the Pyrenees for good measure. In September 2006, a friend and I and 40 strangers set off on an eventful (not always in a good way...) journey from Barcelona to Madrid...